Making Your Own Hard Cider – An Experiment In Laziness

July 27, 2011  |  3 Comments  |  by Ben Czajkowski  |  Homebrew, Homebrew Recipes

A couple weeks ago, I watched the guys over at BasicBrewing.com make super-easy hard cider. The perks of this process is that you get one-gallon carboys, delicious hard cider and/or juice, and it is relatively inexpensive.

McCutcheons-Apple-Cider-Apple-Juice-1What’s even better is that the contents of the jugs are already pasteurized. So, there’s no need to empty the jugs at all. You should never touch the inside of the jugs with anything un-sanitized.

Sanitation is the most important part of brewing, pickling, or canning. Infection is the devil!

Also, make sure there are no preservatives in the contents. Otherwise, it will not allow the yeast to eat sugar and burp, producing alcohol.

Speaking of yeast, you’ll want to do a little research into what kind of yeast you’ll want to use. Some of the champagne yeasts will make the cider particularly dry. Some of the liquid beer yeasts will add some interesting tones to the final product. Me, I prefer it dry, so I grabbed two champagne yeasts.

The process is really easy. The materials you will need:

  • A jug of what you want to make an alcoholic beverage in
  • A #6 rubber stopper/bung
  • Airlock
  • Sanitizer
  • Water
  • Yeast
  • Sugar

McCutcheons-Apple-Cider-Apple-Juice-11. Mix up a sanitation bath.
2. Soak the stopper, airlock, jug caps, and packet/vial of yeast in the sanitation bath.
3. Dump the yeast into the jug.
4. Put the original cap back on. Shake to aerate.
5. Remove the cap and save.
6. Put the stopper in the jug, along with the airlock. Make sure you properly add whatever liquid you need to, to the airlock.
7. Put in a place, with little light that is temperature-controlled.

McCutcheons-Apple-Cider-Apple-Juice-1Optional: sample the cider/juice before hand. I did, and it was delicious.

I’m probably going to wait a month before bottling. And then I’ll probably let the final product age another month and then try a bottle of each at given intervals of one month, three months, six months, and one year. Assuming I have self-control. HA!

McCutcheons-Apple-Cider-Apple-Juice-1

Skull Splitter Clone: Continuing on the Quest for New Ingredients

July 15, 2011  |  Comments Off  |  by Matt Hufford  |  Homebrew, Homebrew Recipes
Skull Splitter

Skull Splitter

As I continue along the never ending path of using new and exciting ingredients, I came across a Skull Splitter clone recipe in my Clone Brews book.  The recipe included a few grains that I had not used before and oak chips, which I had been considering trying out in a beer.  Skull Splitter is a Scottish Ale whose medium body makes it go down surprisingly fast for an 8.5% ABV beer.  With the complex flavors present in Skull Splitter, it is no wonder that new ingredients for me had to be used to brew a clone.

The exotic ingredients in the recipe for me were torrified wheat, Belgian aromatic malt, peated malt, and oak chips.  Torrified wheat is a wheat whose starches have been pre-gelatinized, which makes it easier for the enzymes to break down the starches during the mash.  Belgian aromatic malt is a malt designed to give a beer a strong malty flavor.  The most interesting ingredient, peated malt, is malt that has been smoked over burning peat, which gives it an extreme smokey flavor.  When I tasted a few grains of the peated malt, I found the flavor to be very shocking, because I wasn’t expecting something so smokey.  Oak chips are used to impart an oak flavor to the beer to imitate being aged in an oak barrel.

There are a few differences that I used for process of making this beer than I typically use.  I mashed for 90 minutes instead of the usual 60.  I split my normal single batch sparge into a double batch sparge to try to rinse off the residual sugars on the grains better, since this is a higher gravity beer.  I also did a 90 minute boil because I had sparged a bit too much.

Grains:

  • 14 lbs 2 row
  • 10 oz. 55L British crystal malt
  • 6 oz. torrified wheat
  • 4 oz. Belgian aromatic malt
  • 2 oz. British chocolate malt
  • 1 oz. peated malt

Adjuncts:

  • 10 oz. cane sugar

Hops:

  • 1.5 oz. Goldings at 90 min
  • 0.5 oz. Goldings at 15 min

Yeast:

  • Safale S-04

Secondary:

  • 0.25 oz. steamed oak chips

Yeast Washing: Pinching Every Penny

July 12, 2011  |  2 Comments  |  by Matt Hufford  |  Homebrew

Before I begin, I would like to say that I am sorry for the number and quality of pics that are in this post. Being my first time washing yeast, I hurriedly only snapped a couple pics because I was afraid to mess something up, and because I obsess a little over sanitation (yes, I know, my kitchen is messy, but anything that touches anything is extremely clean and sanitized). Ideally, I would have had someone else take pictures of the process as I was doing it.

Basics first: Yeast washing is reclaiming yeast from the yeast cake that is left in the bottom of a fermentor, after fermentation. This yeast is, usually, healthy and can be reused around ten times before significant mutations cause undesirable effects to your beer.  This is a great way to reduce the cost of your beer, especially if you are using lager and/or liquid yeasts (or even dry ale yeasts, with the way prices have been rising on those).  Although yeast washing may seem intimidating, the process is actually simple, as I found out earlier this evening.

The point of yeast washing is to separate the yeast from the other matter in the trub. The other stuff in the trub usually includes adjuncts, proteins, fats, hop bits, and anything else that comes out during the hot and cold breaks that makes it into the fermentor. Yeast washing removes all of that extra stuff that you don’t want to add to your next batch of beer.

Yeast washing differs from acid washing in that with acid washing, acid is added to lower the pH to 2 for a period of time to kill any non-yeast microorganisms that might be present. This also severely stresses out the yeast, and usually kills any yeast that are not in tip top shape.

Equipment needed:

  • 1 qt wide mouth mason jars (I bought a case of 12 from my local grocer for $11)
  • a pot to boil the mason jars in
  • a fermentor full of beer ready to be racked/bottled

The night before racking/bottling the beer:

Boiling mason jars

Boiling mason jars

  1. Boil 4 mason jars, 4 jar rings, and 4 lids in a heavy, rolling boil for at least 10 minutes
  2. Put the lids and rings on the jars full of hot water
  3. Put the jars into the fridge to cool overnight (we don’t want to kill the yeasts with hot water)

On racking/bottling day:

  1. Sanitize the container that you are going to rack into, then save the sanitizer in a bucket/tube to use while performing the yeast washing
  2. Transfer the beer as normal, being extra careful to keep the opening of the fermentor as covered as possible (especially if you are using buckets)
  3. Take 3 of the mason jars with the boiled-and-chilled water in them, and carefully dump them into the fermentor.  As you dump each one into the fermentor, put the jar in the sanitizer so that the mouth of the jar is facing downwards, and put the ring and lid in the sanitizer.
  4. Cover the opening of the fermentor with the bucket lid or bung and swirl the water to suspend the trub in the water
  5. Place the 3 empty mason jars mouth side up in your sink (to keep any mess from spilling contained)
  6. Pour the trub-water solution from the fermentor into the 3 jars (you will have more stuff in your fermentor than will fit in these jars, don’t worry about it)
  7. Cover the 3 mason jars with the lids and rings that have been sitting in the sanitizer

    Just after pouring the liquid into the jars, you can already see it separate a bit

    Just after pouring the liquid into the jars, you can already see it separate a bit

  8. Let the jars sit for around 15 minutes to let the yeast separate from the unwanted trub

    Jars after 15 minutes

    After 15 minutes, you can see that the liquid has separated into clearly defined layers

  9. Take the 4th mason jar and dump out the water. Put the ring and lid in the sanitizer.
  10. From the three mason jars, you want the third of the liquid that is just above the bottom layer of settled out crud.  For each of the 3 jars, pour the top part off down the drain, then try to pour the desired part into the 4th jar without including any of the crud at the bottom.  Don’t worry if you aren’t perfect, this isn’t an exact science.
  11. Put the lid and ring on the 4th jar, and put it in your fridge, ready to be pitched into your next batch of homebrew!

Maryland Alcohol Tax Set To Rise Fifty Per Cent July 1 [Homebrewing]

June 30, 2011  |  1 Comments  |  by Ben Czajkowski  |  Homebrew

I learned something annoying today when I ventured out to Wells Discount Liquors this evening. There was a sign, in the front of the store, that read “Still Time To Stock Up Before Tax Hike”.

Maryland Beer Tax

Inquiries revealed that the tax is going up on alcohol, on July 1, 2011, from 6% to 9%. According to the Washington Post, this will help decrease underage drinking and alcohol abuse, according to advocates, while raising another $85M a year, in revenue. I have a feeling that the latter is really the key, there.

An extra few cents on a purchase isn’t going to deter underage kids who don’t have to purchase it. And if you’re suffering from alcohol abuse, you’re going to buy it anyway, regardless of the increase.

All the more reason that I am glad I homebrew.

Exploring The Thirsty Brewer Homebrew Store Or How I Almost Died (Not Really) [Homebrewing]

June 30, 2011  |  2 Comments  |  by Ben Czajkowski  |  Homebrew

Since moving to Maryland a month ago, I haven’t had a chance to explore what the state’s brewing scene has to offer. If it’s anything like its alcohol laws, then I’m in trouble. My queries to the locals about microbrews, craft beers, and where to buy them have come up drier than my mouth waiting for a decent beer out here that doesn’t come from my stash. I am moving from a place (Dayton) that is blessed with the powers of Belmont Party Supplies, which is among the nation’s best microbrew stores, and Brewtensils, their counterpart, homebrew store.

Since I had business to the northwest of the city this evening, I decided to stop by the Thirsty Brewer. The shop has received decent reviews on line, that I read.

The Thirsty Brewer

The-Thirsty-Brewer

I set my GPS on course for their address. Fifteen minutes later, I am in the parking lot for the Valley Wine Shop, in the middle of no where. My wife and I looked around at the small cluster of building; we see no signage for the store. I decide that I want to look inside the Valley Wine Shop. I walk into the Wine shop and stop in the entrance way. I look around; one side is stocked with wine; the other side looks like a shady butcher shop that I visited with Matt a couple years ago (basically, empty freezers). Nothing there worth even looking at.

My wife and I drive down to the corner, where there was an ice cream shop. I decide that I’m depressed and want a milkshake. I go in, and I ask the lady, while she’s making my strawberry milkshake, “Is there a place called Thirsty Brewer around here?” Her attitude totally changes; she gets short and snippy. Says she’s tired of answering that question. She manages to tell me that it’s back in the Valley Wine Shop. I say, “Really? I was just in there. I didn’t see it”. She snaps, “It’s in the basement. I’ve never been there.”

We drive back over, and park in the front this time. My wife walks to one side; I walk to the other. I don’t see stairs, but Heather does. She also found the sign for it, too. It’s this 3′x5′ nondescript board on the side of the building; there’s nothing to it. It was not visible from the road because it’s blocked by Valley Wine swag for shitty beer.

Tentatively, we go down the basement stairs, which are just covered in dripping water from something above. At the bottom of the stairs is an unmarked steel door. My first thought was, “we’re going to get murdered in here.” We go in and it’s like someone set up a homebrew shop in someone’s basement (which, I guess, isn’t a false statement). There are no windows. My wife said it reminded her of what a speakeasy would have looked like, in the 1920s and 1930s.

I browsed the stored, and I was happy with the stock that I found. They had supplies, in number, that were slightly smaller than Brewtensils. They have, basically, all I would need. Maybe skimpy on the specialty grains. I didn’t do an accurate inventory of what they have. The Thirsty Brewer did have a big-ass grain milling station, which I was glad to see. In stock, as well, was candi sugar, pre-packaged, which I hand’t seen before. This is used in Belgian beers, if I recall correctly. On the wall was a larger selection of spices, including cardamon seeds. They had beer kits that weren’t from Better Brewers, which I hadn’t seen before.

What impressed me most, though, was the decent selection of yeast, which was organized numerically. I was happy about that because, at Brewtensils, there was no organization to the yeast. It was all just tossed into bins; one had to dig to find anything. The hops, though, made me cringe a little. Their storage was little plastic tubs with lids, in a windowless, standing freezer. Each shelf had like an inch of frost. Now, I am no expert on how to store hops, but this just struck me as odd. I expected to open the tubs and find body parts.

I did find a strain of hops that I was not familiar with: Bramling Cross, which is apparently rarely talked about or stocked. There’s more information at the link.

My goal was to just browse and not buy anything, since I still need to make my mashtun and because there are a couple of Austin Homebrew Supply kits that I have been meaning to order and try. Mission success.

On the way home, I detoured through Loch Raven Resevior. Very nice and scenic. Going to have to go back with my camera and shoot some pictures of the dam.

Molasses Marzen

June 28, 2011  |  1 Comments  |  by Matt Hufford  |  Homebrew, Homebrew Recipes

Excited to start brewing lagers as soon as possible, I found a lager recipe and brewed it as soon as I had time to.  I kinda wanted to brew a true marzen, and at the same time, I wanted to experiment a bit with molasses.  I found the perfect recipe.

Given that I kinda like the question and answer format that I did in a previous post, I think I will continue using it:

  • This recipe looks similar to one I saw in Extreme Brewing by Sam Calagione.  Did you steal it?Well, first off, lists of ingredients are not copywrittable, so I didn’t steal it.  Second, I had to make a few changes to the recipe so that it could fit my methods.  Instead of steeping grain and using 6.6 pounds of light liquid malt extract, I mashed the specialty grains along with 11 pounds of 2 row.  To be more authentic and true to the original recipe, I could have mashed 11 pounds of pilsner, but that would have cost me more.  Since the only real difference in the final product would be that the color would be a little lighter, I figured it wouldn’t make much of a difference with how dark this beer is going to be.  I put in the molasses and brown sugar before the wort started boiling.  I skipped adding gypsum and Irish moss (if I added gypsum, crystals would probably start forming and my beer would end up having gravel in it because of how hard my water is).
  • Your recipes seem to be kinda terse and lack important details.  Could you post more specifics on your process and such?Sure, I could, but I am not sure what you, the reader, wants to know beyond what I already post.  Leave a comment clearly describing what additional information you would like, and I will start adding that to my posts.  I might update older posts with the information.For some details in general, I do single infusion mashes and batch sparge.  I aim my mash temperature to be at 153F, but don’t try to fiddle with it if it is off by a couple degrees.  My mash thickness is always 1.25 qt/lb.  I sparge with enough water to get 6-6.5 gallons of wort, which seems to usually be around 4 gallons.  I don’t mess with my water chemistry at all.
  • I don’t like beer.Then don’t drink beer? Not really sure how to respond to this. I get some really odd hate mail sometimes.
Brewing Sugars

The brown sugar and molasses I used. The molasses is sitting in hot water to make it easier to pour out of the jars.

Grains:

  • 11# 2 row
  • 1# Crystal 60L

Sugars:

  • 2# Light brown sugar
  • 24oz Molasses

Hops:

  • 1.5oz Chinook at 60 min
  • 1oz Saaz at 10 min

Yeast:

Prerequisites for Brewing a Lager

June 25, 2011  |  2 Comments  |  by Matt Hufford  |  Home Hacking, Homebrew

I will apologize in advance for the picture quality. I was going to use my point and shoot for the pictures, but I couldn’t find any batteries for my camera that weren’t dead. I had to use my phone’s camera instead. I really wish it had a better sensor and optics so that I could drop the point and shoot camera all together.

If you have been reading my posts carefully, you would remember that in my Oktoberfest post, I had been planning some sort of lager chamber.  Well, I trolled Craigslist for a bit to see if there were any good deals on mini-fridges that I could use for this purpose.  Not only did I find a mini-fridge that could be used for my purposes, it was much better than your typical mini-fridge.  I found a wine cellar fridge.

The lager fridge

The lager fridge. Cold crashing a beer to test it out.

This fridge has a digital temperature control built in, so this forgoes the need of having to buy an external temperature controller to regulate the temperature (the built-in thermostats on a typical fridge don’t give the control that is typically needed for lagering).  This cost be about the same as a normal used mini-fridge plus temperature controller, so I figure I am actually ahead because I don’t have to deal with the hassle of messing with an external temperature controller.

Now, for us extreme homebrewers, a simple fridge isn’t quite enough.  To aid in heat transfer between the bucket of fermenting beer and the air, we must add fans!  The fans will circulate the air to keep the whole fridge a consistent temperature, and I figure the moving air will transfer heat more efficiently from the bucket.

Rummaging through my spare computer/electronic parts, I was able to find exactly what I needed to get a couple working fans in my fridge (I am a programmer by trade after all): two computer fans and a 12v DC transformer.

Computer Fan

Computer fan, perfect for a fan that is going to be running constantly for a long time.

DC Transformer

DC Transformer that outputs 12v. Exactly what is needed for computer fans. Some computer fans can work with lower voltage, but will spin slower. 12v is the standard. The 1 amp this can output is way more than what is needed for a couple computer fans.

The assembly of the fan system was actually pretty simple.  Instead of stripping the wires for the fans (I don’t have a proper wire stripper, so this would be hard with how small the wires are), I removed removed the leads from the connector assembly.  Removing them was pretty easy.  I just pushed down on the metal catches with a knife and slid them out.

Fan connecter

The two metal spots here on the connector are the catches that keeps the wires in the connector. Push down on them with something small, and the wires slide right out.

Cut off the connector on the output wires from the transformer and strip the wires.  The hot wire on my transformer was marked, so I connected that to the red wire on the fans, and connected the other wire from the transformer to the blue wire on my fans.  I wired the fans in parallel instead of serial because I remember something from my engineering level physics classes in college about how that effects the resistance of the system and makes the voltage lower or something.  I really wish I remember the classes better.

Wires connected

Here is a shot of the wires connected together for a test. Do not leave them like this for any period of time outside a short test. Solder the connections, then insulate them with a heat shrink insulator or with electrical tape. It is very dangerous to leave any bare wire exposed.

After everything was all connected, I positioned the fans so that one would circulate the air up and down and the other would circulate the air around the lagering vessel and plugged it in.

Lager Fridge

You can kinda see the way the fans are positioned in this shot. If you want more pics of the setup, leave a comment saying what you'd like.

I think the fans are doing their job perfectly.  I noticed that after I had the air circulating system set up that the fridge seemed to cycle on more frequently, presumably because the fans were helped to cold crash the beer faster.  It would be nice to have a comparison test that compares how fast the fridge cools down the beer with and without the fans running, but doing that would be a lot of work for little to no pay off.

Oktoberfest Recipe! [Homebrewing]

June 21, 2011  |  1 Comments  |  by Matt Hufford  |  Homebrew, Homebrew Recipes

I foresee a few questions upfront about me posting this recipe.

  • Didn’t you already brew this weekend?  How much do you need to brew? What are you doing with all the beer???No, I did not.  The previous recipe I posted this weekend was actually brewed last weekend.  I’ve been posted them a while after I had brewed them.  I am lazy.  I am going to make an effort to post these within a day or two of brewing.  My friends tend to drink a lot of my beer.  I don’t mind at all, as it means I get to brew more.  I think the only time I complained was when I brewed a beer so delicious that I didn’t want to share it with anyone else.
  • Why are you brewing an Oktoberfest beer so early?  October is so far away!Oktoberfest is in September, not October.  Don’t ask me why; ask those silly Germans.  Maybe it has something to do with schadenfreude?   (Ok, yes, my ancestors are from Germany, but I have no idea why.  Maybe Wikipedia could inform you as to why.)
  • Oktoberfest beers are lagers, not ales.  You used the wrong yeast and fermentation temperature.You got me there.  I currently don’t have the equipment or space to be able to brew a lager.   I want to age it at lagerish temps using some kind of aging chamber and ice.  No idea how this will work out, or even how I will do it.  I figure I have a few weeks to figure this out, as I will probably also be priming the keg with sugar to carbonate it.  This probably won’t end up happening as time/effort/cost could be prohibitive.  If successful, I will probably try to age all of by beers like this.  If anyone has any suggestions/ideas, I would be glad to hear them.

Continue reading “Oktoberfest Recipe! [Homebrewing]” »

Amber Ale

June 18, 2011  |  2 Comments  |  by Matt Hufford  |  Homebrew, Homebrew Recipes

An amber has been brewed.  It isn’t really anything special, but a normal, run of the mill beer is nice every once in a while.  While brewing this beer, I noticed that it didn’t look like all the grains were crushed when after they passed through my grain mill.  I guess it is time to get a feeler gauge and make sure the gap is set correctly.  I guess with the number of batches that have been made using my mill that either the points on the rollers have worn down a little or the gap has slowly worked itself open a little.

Grains:

  • 12# 2 row
  • 1# Caramunich
  • 1# Munich
  • 0.5# Crystal 40

Hops:

  • 1.25 oz Perle @ 60 min
  • 0.25 oz Perl @ 30 min
  • 0.5 oz Perle @ 5 min

Yeast:

  • Nottingham

Black Wit

June 5, 2011  |  Comments Off  |  by Matt Hufford  |  Homebrew, Homebrew Recipes

I’ve been feeling a bit more experimental in my brewing lately (maybe Ben rubbed off on me a bit? or maybe I am brewing them in his honor?).  I decided to brew an “esoteric” beer from the “Clone Brews” book I got for Christmas.  The recipe in the book is called “Wit Black”, but since my local homebrew store didn’t have the exact ingredients the recipe called for , I kinda had to substitute and make due with what was available (how pioneer like of me).  The most noticeable different in the recipe is that I was unable to find chocolate wheat malt.

Grains:

  • 1 lb – Custom Roasted Wheat (I roasted wheat malt at 220F in my for about an hour in my toaster oven pan, stirring occasionally, then I let it sit for a week or two in a paper bag)
  • 8 oz – Midnight Wheat Malt
  • 2 oz – British Roasted Barley
  • 2.25 lb – Wheat Malt
  • 7.25 lb – 2 row

Hops and spices:

  • 1 oz – Tettnanger @ 60min
  • 1/2 oz – Star Anise crushed (now that I re-read the recipe, I see it calls for 1/2 tsp of anise crushed – whoops)

Yeast

  • Nottingham

The anise smell was pretty strong during the boil, I hope this mellows out a bit by the time I end up drinking it.  At least I now know why it was so strong smelling. Haha.  I also have no idea how star anise translates into using just the anise seed, so maybe I wasn’t too far off?  Who knows, I’ll still have beer though.

Cheers.